Niseko, Japan

Niseko is located on the island of Hokkaido where the main town is Sapporo and can be reached in just under two hours by domestic flight from Tokyo and further transfers in two to three hours. There are plenty of alternative accommodations but it is advisable to book well in advance as the process can take some time and it can quickly become fully booked. In terms of transportation, there are also several options and ski buses, but as usual you are more flexible with a rental car. However, the amount of snow and left-hand traffic can be a challenge for less experienced drivers. Book the biggest four-wheel drive rental car you can find and be aware that an international driver's license is required to rent and drive a car in Japan.

Niseko is Japan's largest ski resort and consists of four interconnected ski areas: Annupuri, Niseko Village (not to be confused with Niseko town) Hirafu, and Hanazono. The small ski resort of Moiwa is also in close proximity but has a separate lift pass. The different areas have their own micro-cultures where Hirafu is the largest with the most service, Hanazono most western, Niseko Village most up scale and our favorite Annupuri which is more relaxed. The descriptions also fit the skiing in each area. The lift systems are well functioning but have not been updated for many years, resulting in generally slow lifts and some museum pieces. Some of the lifts have weather protection. Lift queues are rare.

Due to Western and especially Australian investment in the ski resorts, unlike other parts of Japan, much of the staff you meet in Niseko speak English. Restaurants have menus in English and always have pictures of the food and many signs are translated, albeit often difficult to understand. However, there is certainly enough Japanese culture and food to make the place culturally interesting but also challenging.

Although Niseko is known for its off-piste skiing, there is skiing for all types of skiers. You'll find plenty of groomed runs for both beginners and those who want more advanced skiing. However, Niseko is not for those who like outdoor dining, beautiful weather and a sunburn. The special geographical location, where north-west winds bring down low pressure after low pressure with snow from nearby Siberia, means that it almost always snows and the sunshine is few and far between. In one season, between 18 and 24 meters of snow fall. The record for a constant snowfall is 25 days. The snow is not like that found in Europe but cold and very dry, possibly similar to that found next to Salt Lake in Utah, USA.

Although it is always snowing and often windy, access to sheltered off-piste skiing in the birch and bamboo forests is always available and virtually unlimited. This is also where the snow is deepest and you are more protected from avalanches.

Weather permitting, the ski patrol opens gates for back country skiing outside the ski area. However, this type of skiing is not patrolled and you should always know what you are doing when leaving a ski area. Any rescue needs for this type of skiing are always paid for out of pocket, so you need to check with your insurance company.

The skiing in Niseko is unlike anything we have done before. Japan is a well-developed country but has its own culture and food, which makes for an interesting exotic experience but can also be challenging at times. The nature, the large amounts of snow, the volcanic mountains and the design of the ski areas provide an unusual playful skiing. The fact that the mountains are not so high is well balanced by the varied terrain but above all by the snow, which is inexplicably fantastic and must be experienced.